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Among The Ruins: Southern Rhone's famous vineyards. Chateauneuf-Du-Pape In the early 14th century, the Chateauneuf-Du-Pape, or New Castle of the Pope, was built several miles outside the city of Avignon by John XXII as a country retreat. It is safe to say, that one of the things which attracted him there was the extraordinary wine being produced in the area. Soon afterwards, 62 acres of vines had been planted around the castle. These were the early beginnings of the region we know today. In fact, due to its recent popularity, the appellation of Chateauneuf-Du-Pape has grown to some 7000+ acres that spread out to the city beyond the castle, and even further to the edge of the city limits. Passing through, one cannot help but notice what exactly is the main business here. There are vineyards and tasting rooms virtually all over the town.
But that should not be a surprise, not if you know the history. The tradition of winemaking continued long after the Popes left the castle behind and in 1923, led by Baron Le Roy, the growers established the first set of rules governing the production of wine in the region that would later become the foundation for the Appellation d'Origine Controlee system put into place all across France in 1936. It is probably here, as nowhere else, that you can actually get a sense of what the word terroir means. The terrain is almost moon-like, covered with giant stones pushed down by the glacier melts eons ago. The soil itself is mostly alluvial clay, but it does vary from one area to the next. And that is why thirteen different grape varieties are allowed to be grown (They are for reds: grenache, syrah, cinsault, mourvedre, terret noir, vaccarese, counoise and muscardin. For whites: clairette, bourboulenc, roussane, picpoul and picardin). The Mistral, the famous north wind that blows constantly here, clears out clouds and haze, leaving quite a bit of dry air and sunlight behind. At night, the stones regenerate the solar heat they've absorbed during the day, keeping the vines warm. The highest minimum A.O.C alcohol level is thus put into place at 12.5%.
Why we picked this wine! In 1944, retreating German soldiers blew up the castle, leaving only one corner of it standing. As you walk the grounds surrounding the ruins, you pass the old cave which is now a wine shop and restaurant (Pape Verger) featuring the best examples the region has to offer. A sense of history is strongly felt on this walk, and so to the idea that the land makes the wine what it is. Tasting a rich and robust Chateauneuf-Du-Pape, one that will hold up and improve over time, is at last the final proof. Our Favorite Years: 2005-Classic 2004-Very Good 2003-Excellent 2000-Very Good 1999-Very Good 1998-Classic 1995-Excellent |
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Southern Rhone
