EPIC WINES AT ENKIDU
by Matthew Palmer

Enkidu is a philosophy. The tale of Gilgamesh has two heros, one is of course Gilgamesh, strong, courageous, powerful and fiery. The other is Enkidu, strong and passionate, but full of learning and wisdom and thoughtful action. Enkidu is the perfect name for a winery created by Phillip Staehle, a man who possesses passion and thought, in perfect balance. I met with Phil in the Spring of 2008, tasting through his wines was an eye-opening experience. Hearing the passion in his voice for the vineyards he works with and the wines he produces, was a pleasure. Phil puts his fruit through an extended cold soak, up to seven days. After soaking, he applies a native yeast fermentation, with up to 20% whole cluster pressing, an approach that helps to bring the vine and vineyard back to the practice of making good wine.

Using a minimalist approach to winemaking allows Phil to produce wines that are unique expressions of the vineyard. Many of the wines that Phil produces are pure expressions of a given site and vintage, such as the Fazekas Petite Sirah or the Kick Ranch and Odyssey Syrah's. Where his true genius shows through is wines like the Humbaba Rhone blend. This wine is 60% Syrah and 40% Petite Sirah, and tastes like it came from one of the best vineyards in the Rhone valley. The whole approach is evident in seamlessly integrated tannins that back up a panoply of fruits, from blackberry to raspberry and over into light cedary spice qualities, this wine is phenomenal.

Robert Parker has written up many of Phil's wines, including this 2005 Odyssey Russian River Syrah.

The inspiration for the Enkidu line comes through at every turn, the Humbaba (protector of the Cedar forests) and Phil's excellent rose, Shamhat (the seductress). Even some of the vineyard designate wines that Phil makes sound like they have a connection with the epic tale of Gilgamesh, Odyssey and Fazekas come to mind. Phil strives in everything he does to produce the highest quality product possible. He considered producing a Cabernet in a recent vintage, but opted to wait for the perfect fruit rather than short himself on his ideal Cab.

To sum up Phil's approach to winemaking is to quote his late mentor from Carmenet Vineyards, Dick Graff, "To be the best you can, to not compromise on quality, and most certainly to concentrate on every detail." This, in a nutshell, is how Phil makes wines, focusing on every minor detail and ensuring the fullest expression of the vineyard. Truly, Phillip Staehle is one of the new artists of wine, filling his canvas with both broad and subtle strokes alike, creating an experience that is both richly indulgent and aesthetically refined.

Photo by Erin Palmer