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October 2001 |
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L'Echanson Rue Daguerre Montparnasse
Le Clown Bar 114 Rue Amelot 11th Arrondissement Paris |
 
Cathy and Didier of L'Echanson. The Best Little Wine Bars In Paris If you find yourself in Montparnasse in Paris' 14th arrondissement, looking for a quiet place to grab lunch or dinner, then you may want to stop at a tiny little bar on the Rue Daguerre called L'Echanson. It is unassuming, not on the list of famous places to eat, but then most of the restaurants, bistros and wine bars in Paris aren't on that list either. Sometimes, you just have to watch how busy a place gets to know that the locals favor it, as was the case with L'Echanson. We stayed at the hotel across the street and had a direct view of the little wine bar on the corner. Day and night, patrons filled the few seats outside and packed the place inside. We were on our way back to the hotel, after a busy day of walking the streets of Paris, when we decided to stop in for a nightcap. The man behind the bar was Didier, owner of the establishment. We asked what was good and he pointed to the day's special, Descombes 99 Brouilly from Beaujolais. He did not steer us wrong. It was a full-flavored Cru, with hints of earthy terroir, tea and herbs, cherries and spice. Chilled, it was just the thing we needed to bring us back to life. We asked for a second glass and Didier obliged, opening another bottle. His wife Cathy was busy waiting tables. In fact, for the three days we we stayed at the hotel across the street, she was always busy waiting tables. But never once did the smile disappear from her face, always a cheerful greeting to every customer. L'Echanson is the kind of friendly place you look for when in Paris. Good wine, good food, and good people.
The Winter Circus. Down the street, patrons eagerly await the next glass at the festively decorated Clown Bar. Building On A Theme: Le Clown Bar Not far from Place de la Bastille on Rue Amelot, is Paris' Winter Circus, a permanent circus built in 1852. A few doors down, Le Clown Bar counts among its patrons the many famous clowns who perform at Cirque d'Hiver. It is also known for it's fantastic wine list and the food that goes along with it. But most unique about this little place are the wonderful decorations that line the walls, ceilings and floors. You can guess what the theme is. Not only is Le Clown Bar alive with dazzling color, but also, lights, ceramic tiles, figurines and even every glass of wine painted with a slapstick scene. The atmosphere alone is worth a visit. If that were all the reason to go there, you might not want to stay very long, but this is not the case. We lingered over a long lunch and several glasses of wine including Cotes de Thongue (a fruity white grenache from the South of France) and Coteaux du Tricastin (spicy red from the Rhone). Our lunch plates of Burgundy Poached Eggs and Smoked Ham were quite delicious and the staff was fast and helpful. All in all, it was a knee-slapping experience. |
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