SUMMER 2002

 

 

L'Ecluse

15
Quai
des
Grand Augustins

Paris 6th

 

Quiet, warm and secluded on the inside, This L'Ecluse serves up the best Bordeaux in the Latin Quarter.

Bordeaux-mania!

Story and Photos by Paul D Trier ? 2002 Paul D Trier, all rights reserved, use by permission only

Ducking in, out of the rain, we stepped inside the little wine bar with the small front porch and cabaret lights on the outside.  The interior was warm and cozy with dark wood panels and plush velveteen cushioned chairs, just the kind of place you'd want to spend a dreary afternoon in Paris. 

This L'Ecluse (the original L'Ecluse) located in the Latin Quarter, was once known as Caberet L'Ecluse, a post World War II entertainment spot for the new bohemian crowd of the day.  It ended its life as that type of establishment in 1974, but soon was reincarnated as the cornerstone of the L'Ecluse wine bar chain, known throughout the city for its friendly, warm atmosphere, excellent light dinner fare, and exclusively Bordeaux wine list.

All together, there are now six L'Ecluses in Paris, as well as an affiliated wine shop which sells the wines showcased on the chain's menu. The company's formula for success, laid out with the first L'Ecluse, has served it well. Parisians and foreigners alike know where to go to find excellent wine by the glass, ambience and good food that won't put a dent in your spending budget.

The wine list reads exclusively in the regions of Paulliac, Graves, Saint-Emilion, Medoc and others from Bordeaux, with only the better vintages being offered.  The prices are a bit higher than your average bar a vin, but then, this is not your average vin. For a few more Euros, you get a glass of wine to remember, as you stroll down rain-soaked sidewalks, taking in the sights. A treat for sure, but not outrageously extravagant.

We chose a 1995 Saint-Emilion to go with our light lunch plates of charcuterie and cheese. A delicate accompaniment for a robust wine, the definite star of the meal. The nose was dark chocolate and cassis. The palate was full of many surprises; berries, wood, leather and spice. A wine that was certainly coming into its own and meant to be savored, as we did, taking our time on that rainy afternoon by the Seine.

The service was quick and responsive and fit right in with the ambience. Respecting the customer's choice, staying low-key and letting the wine do all the talking. A wine bar that is sophisticatedly quiet and comfortable, while the show is going on inside the glasses.

Which must be why the cabaret lights were on outside. Quite a performance.